Showing posts with label orphans. Show all posts
Showing posts with label orphans. Show all posts

Friday, June 18, 2010

The Revealed Truth Part 3: Good Samaritans





Even though it's not a speaking role, my friend Godfrey does a great job getting into character as the leper.  Godfrey was one of my students at the local secondary school.  He is also one of the most extraordinary individuals I know.  After both of his parents and two of his siblings died of AIDS when he was 13, Godfrey took over the family farm.  Child-headed households are common in Kiwangala, but Godfrey is different because has always taken on the hardship with an entrepreneurial spirit.  Even though he's in the field every morning and evening doing the work of four people, he's still one of the top students of his class, and sells the bananas and the sugarcane that he grows at the school canteen.  He's active in athletics, the church, and drama as you can see here.  Last year he was featured in a movie I made about World AIDS Day.  Godfrey is an inspiration to never give up.  He even convinced me to buy 100 kgs of popcorn kernels that he popped up and passed out at The Reveal Truth premier.
 


One of the pivotal scenes in Part 3 is when Jesus counsels Nicodemus and convinces him to be born again.  If you want to go to heaven you must first be saved, He says.  Working in community development I partnered with many faith-based organizations and attended their services on Sunday.  Often the lessons of the Bible would be eclipsed by calls from the pastor in his sermon to recruit new members of the church.  When the Ugandans found out that I was not Born Again they aggressively tried to save me.  On one of the numerous occasions, I was in a parked car with a church member waiting for a thunderstorm to die down outside.  We were making conversation to pass the time. One thing led to another and all of a sudden he was trying to save me.  The more I resisted the worse it got.  I felt like I was on a bad date at the drive-in.  The rain couldn't stop quick enough.

Christianity is relatively new to Uganda.  One young woman, who was working on The Revealed Truth, became Born Again when she was a teenager.  When her animist practicing parents found out, they chased her out of the house and disowned her.  Nowadays, almost all Ugandans identify themselves as being Christian or Muslim and publicly denounce the traditional tribal religions.  However animism is still practiced beneath the surface.  Someone who is sick may go to the health clinic during the day, pray for a miracle in church in the evening, and secretly visit the witchdoctor in the middle of the night.  There are regular reports of child sacrifice.

Obviously missionaries have a lot to do with with Uganda's religious fervor.  They are responsible for a large portion of the country's humanitarian development work and nobly live out in the bush with the most impovrished.  However, their gifts come with a trade off.  Their mission is to recruit more Christians.  Many are eager to sign up, but for what?  A new religion or to receive foreign aid?

Despite my criticism of the Born Agains, I think that the religion does help to purify the souls of Uganda.  The Masaka district has been hit hard by spells of bad luck, most recently with AIDS, but also with war.  During the civil war in the 1980s both sides fought with child soldiers.  I've met a few that have grown into adults.  It has been suggested to me that by being Born Again they can finally step away from their old lives of violence and the circumstances they were forced into, and start again fresh.  Being Born again gives them the psychological release to control their destiny.

Finally, I'd like to have a look at the woman pumping water from the well.  This is a little b-roll that I shot to introduce the Good Samaritan scene.  This is actually where I collected my drinking water during the dry season when the rainwater tank down the street was empty.  I'd carry two 40 liter jerrycan one and a half miles from this borehole to my house. It was easier to carry two rather than one because two gives you balance, plus it's a good workout.  Eventually I found a man who delivered water to me for 13 cents a jerrycan.  He told me that he makes more money that way than he did as a teacher.  The majority of the population doesn't have indoor plumbing and so the village waterhole becomes the center of social life.  Water's fetched mostly by women and children who carry it back home on their heads.  The lady you see here wearing a traditional gomezi dress comes for water at least once day.  Nothing has changed in the 2000 years between her and the Samaritan woman except that the hollowed out gourd has become a plastic jerrycan.

The Revealed Truth Blog Series

This post is the fourth of a nine part series that takes an in-depth look at the The Revealed Truth and how rural Ugandan culture influenced the making of the film.  The  movie is about an hour  long  but I've broken it down into 5 to 10 minute blog-size episodes.  The next post will feature Judas.



The previous post was The Revealed Truth Part 2: Cross Culture Shock.
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Thursday, April 29, 2010

Nsenene



Nze nsenene. Nva lugendo.

Grasshoppers are a ubiquitous snack in Southern Uganda. They are lured by lights, trapped in barrels, and then fried up in a little oil with salt. Kids love them and the ones you see enjoying them here are orphans from Nazareth Children's Home in Nyendo, Masaka.

Nyendo’s a suburb that sits 45 minutes away from the Equator on a stretch of highway that curves around Lake Victoria. It’s a place where busses from as far away as Kigali, Rwanda and Mombasa, Kenya stop in the middle of the night for their passengers to relieve themselves and stock up on street foods like meat-on-a-stick and fried lungfish. Grasshoppers are plentiful too. Teenage street vendors peddle nsenene from minibus to minibus with same entrepreneurial spirit as the guys who feel obligated to squeegee your windshield in New York.

The coming of the grasshoppers coincides with the end of each rainy season. You know it’s that time of year again when you see fluorescent floodlights pop up with the glow of a car dealership lot. Overnight they are set up in unlikely places. They span over several rooftops in slum areas, deep in the middle of swamps, or in a neighbor’s backyard. Often the traps are assembled where there was previously no electricity, but someone has shimmed up a nearby power line with a cable for a free hook-up.

The traps themselves are metal barrels fitted with a 10 foot piece of corrugated iron sheeting. The lights are aimed at the metallic surface and the grasshoppers become dazzled by the display, much like moths around a porch light. The insects are drawn into the brilliant luminance and whack themselves on the metal sheeting. Stunned, they slide down into the bottom of the barrel. At the end of the night they are collected in plastic bags and sold at roadside markets.

The Ugandan varieties of these insects are not the same grasshoppers that you’d find in America or Europe. They’re actually a type of katydid that are closely related to the same migratory locusts that plagued Pharaoh in the book of Exodus. Like Egypt, Uganda also sits along the banks of the river Nile (and Moses has always been a popular name), but the grasshoppers there are too delicious to pose a threat. However, if the insects weren’t eaten they could strip the lush tropical environment of its foliage. On one acre of land, fifty live grasshoppers (or two recommended serving sizes in fried snack form) have the same grazing power as a cow. For a country where 80% of its inhabitants’ livelihood depends on agriculture the result would be devastating.

Yet most Ugandans don’t see themselves as agents in pest control. They consume grasshoppers because they’re a nutritious snack. Every 100 grams of grasshopper contains a whopping 20.6 grams of protein. That’s as much as in an equivalent weight of beef. Many people in the impoverished, rural areas of the country are malnourished. Grasshoppers provide them with a cheap, and often free, source of nutrition.

Nsenene is a perfect afternoon snack for kids. The orphans in the video tried nabbing a few hoppers even before they were done cooking. Nazareth Children’s Home was started in 1978 by a woman named Josephine. Many of the children you see were dropped off on her doorstep in the middle of the night. Today the orphanage looks after 25 orphans who range in age from 1 to 20 years old. Josephine’s still around, but one of the older orphans, Nankya Carol, has taken up most of the home’s responsibilities. Carol’s the young woman in the video frying up the grasshoppers. She makes sure that the other kids are healthy and that they go to school. She also keeps a small garden that provides food for the orphanage. Nazareth Children’s Home loves visitors so if you find yourself around Masaka visit them. Their postal address is:

PO Box 86
Masaka, Uganda

If you can’t make it out to Uganda, I’ve done my best to piece together Carol’s Nsenene recipe below.

Grasshopper recipe:

Collect grasshoppers- as many as you can catch
Peal wings and legs off
Soak in water for 15-20 minutes
Drain the water from pan
Add a couple of tablespoons of vegetable oil
Fry until golden brown over medium heat
Stir occasionally to prevent burning
Add salt to taste

I’d also like to thank Lisandro Torre, a Peace Corps volunteer, who served at Nazareth Children’s Home. He's the mysterious white hand in the movie that you see sampling the nsenene. Without his assistance, this video wouldn’t have gotten made.


Links
The Internet is well versed on eating weird foods and Ugandan grasshopper culture is no exception. Here are some other blogs and websites on the subject. Many have their own variations to the classic nsenene recipe.
  • The popular Bizarre Foods show on the Travel Channel featured grasshoppers on its Ugandan episode.


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